一个城市有一个城市的底蕴。
杭州的底蕴:一半在湖山,一半在菜品。
众所周知,“浙菜”是中国八大菜系之一,
而“杭州菜”是“浙菜”当仁不让的主力。
杭州饮食文化源远流长。闻名世界的
良渚文化和河姆渡文化遗址中出土的 40
余种动物残骸以及灶、釜、盆、盘可以证明:
早在远古时代,这一带的先民就开始了烈
火炊烟的烹饪生活。
伴随着几千年斗转星移,人们对食物
的追求逐渐从“果腹”演变到“品尝”。南
北朝后,江南长期无战事,加上京杭大运河
的开通,五代吴越国的建都以及被称为“中
华民族第二次迁移”的“宋室南渡”,每一
次历史变迁都推动了杭州饮食的创新与发
展。尤其是南宋迁都杭州后,大批达官贵
人和平民百姓南移,将京都烹饪文化带到了
杭州,从此南北厨艺无间交流,名菜名馔
及各式小吃目不暇接。
吴自牧的《梦粱录》、周密的《武林旧
事》以及《西湖老人繁胜录》等都记录了杭
州饮食的繁华和“齐味万方”的市食佳肴。
据《梦粱录》,当时的各式菜品已达280 多个,
烹饪技法15 种以上,不仅精巧华贵的酒楼
林立,平民百姓喜欢的小吃摊、杂碎铺、面
品店也触目皆是,使得杭州饮食既海纳百川,
又自立一派,成为中华烹饪的一颗明珠。
A city has its richness in culture.
Half of Hangzhou’s richness rests with its
natural splendor and the other half with its
delicious cuisine.
Zhejiang Cuisine is one of the eight key
Chinese cuisines and Hangzhounese cuisine is
surely its representative.
Hangzhou has a long culture in regards to its
cuisine, as demonstrated by the forty-odd
types of animal bones, hearths, kettles, basins,
plates, etc., all unearthed twenty kilometers
away in the world-renowned Liangzhu
and Hemudu Cultural Remains. As early
prehistoric times our ancestors here were
cooking on fire.
I n t h e f o l l o w i n g s e v e r a l t h o u s a n d
years,people’s pursuit of food gradually went
beyond just enjoying tasty food to satisfy the
stomach. The innovation and development
of Hangzhounese cuisine has been ascribed
to the following key factors: The long time
of peace after the Northern and Southern
Song Dynasties; the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand
Canal that was opened in the Sui Dynasty,
Hangzhou being made the capital of Wuyue
Kingdom in the Five Dynasties period
(907-960) and the imperial family of the
Southern Song Dynasty moving southward to
Hangzhou, which is historically known as the
second great Chinese migration. Particularly
after Southern Song made Hangzhou capital,
with the massive migration of high-ranking
officials, noble lords and civilians that brought
their own cuisine to Hangzhou, Hangzhou's
cuisine thus became a blend of north and
south. Thereby giving birth to barrages of
new famous dishes and snacks.
Hangzhou’s flourishing cuisine and numerous
variety of dishes were recorded in Fond
Remembrances of Lin’an by Wu Zimu, Old
Stories of Wulin by Zhou Mi and Reminiscences
of life in Lin’an by someone whose pseudonym
was\"old man of West Lake\". According to
the first book on the subject, there were as
many as 280 dishes cooked in 15 different
ways and sold in the fancy restaurants for
the wealthy and in a multitude of food stalls,
snack shops and flour food shops popular
amongst the common people. As a result,
with its peculiarities of different styles being
blended together, Hangzhounese cuisine is a
true national treasure.